# DIY: Make Your Own Pettiskirt

Fewer things are as cute as a little one in a pettiskirt! Here is my tutorial on making your own! ENJOY!

Supplies
-Fabric {Use calculation below} For my pettiskirts, I use satin for the yoke and NYLON chiffon for the skirt. { I suggest the nylon chiffon because it doesn’t ravel!} I purchase my nylon chiffon at www.murielleroy.net *You can also use tulle!
-Measurements:
1) Waist {or hips, depending on how you want it to fit} 2) The desired length from waist to where you want the skirt to end.
-Rotary cutter and cutting mat {optional}
-Scissors
-Elastic – 3⁄4” wide elastic and the length will be your waist measurement less 1”
-Satin Ribbon – 1 1⁄2”-2” wide and 2 1⁄2 times the waist measurement
-Ruffler Foot {optional}
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Fabric Calculation

Here is a formula to decide how much fabric you need to purchase to make your pettiskirt:

{L = desired length measurement you took above} {W = waist measurement you took above}
Fabric #1 for the yoke
{I suggest satin or cotton for the yoke}
Row #1 – Yoke = (W x 2) by (L/3 + 2”)
In my example, the waist is 21” and the length is 15”, so Yoke = (21” x 2) by (15”/3 + 2”) = 42” by 7”
Since my material is 44” wide, I need 1⁄4 yard (36”/7” = .19 yards)
Fabric #2 for the skirt
{I suggest tulle or nylon chiffon}
Row #2 = (W x 6) by (L/3 + 1”)
In my example, the formula would be:
Row #2 = (21” x 6) by (15”/3 + 1”) = 126” by 6”
Row #3 = (W x 18) by (L/3 + 1”)
In my example, the formula would be:
Row #3 = (21” x 18) by (15”/3 + 1”) = 378” by 6”
Fluff = (W x 36) by 2”
In my example, the formula would be:

Fluff = (21” x 36) by 2” = 756” by 2”
Now you take row #2 plus row #3 plus the fluff and add them together like this:
(Row #1 + Row #2)/width of fabric = number of strips
(126” + 378”)/54” = 9.33 = Round up to 10
Number of strips x 6” = 10 x 6 = 60”
Take the fluff and divide by the width of the fabric like this 756”/54” = 14 strips
Number of strips x 2” = 14 x 2 = 28

So, you need 60” and 28” of fabric for ONE layer of the skirt. Since we have two layers to make, you need to multiply each by 2
to get the total amount of fabric needed!
60” x 2 = 120” – to get the yards needed, divide by 36” 120”/36” = 3.33 yards – round up to 4 to be safe!
28” x 2 = 48”
48”/36” = 1.33 yards – round up to 2 yards again, to be safe.
If you want to do more than one color for the fluff, just take the total amount of fluff needed and divide by the number of colors that you are using

• Please feel free to e-mail me if you need help with the calculation info@theposhparent.com**

Use the measurements from above and cut the yoke of the skirt.
My yoke is cut 42” by 7”

My strips for row #2 and row #3 are cut 54” by 6” and I cut 20 strips this size. My fluff is cut 54” by 2” and I cut 28 strips this size.

This is quite a bit of cutting and it generally takes me about 1 hour just to cut the fabric, so just be patient and take your time! I use a rotary cutter and self-healing mat to cut the fabric, it is just much easier and quicker as well as more accurate!

Step 2: Sewing the yoke (row #1) and Making the Elastic and Ribbon Casing
Get the fabric you cut for the yoke and place the right sides together. Sew the short ends together using a serger or by doing a French seam.

Making a French seam:
To do a French seam, take the piece of fabric that you cut for row #1 and place the WRONG sides together and the raw side edges even. Stitch 1/4” seam allowance. Open up the fabric and press. Then, turn the fabric with the RIGHT sides together and stitch approximately a 3/8” seam allowance. This will encase the seam allowance and give you a clean finished look which is great if you are selling these.

Now you have made a circle with the yoke fabric. Fold down one side of the yoke 1⁄4” and press and then another 1” and press again.

Sew two button holes approximately 1” apart on the right or left or right hand front side of the skirt (if you want the ribbon bow to be in the front middle then put the button holes in the front middle).
The button holes should be approximately 5/8” high. Make sure the button holes are on the FRONT of the casing.
Stitch the casing close to the edge leaving approximately 1 1⁄2” opening for the elastic. We will insert the elastic and ribbon later.
Step 3: Constructing the Pettiskirt layers

You are going to make 2 layers for the pettiskirt.

Row #2 – The size of row #2 was figured previously, grab that measurement so that you will know how big to make the row!

You may have to cut one of the strips down to make it the right size. For example, if my fabric is 54” and the total length I need to make is 126”, I will need 54” + 54” + 18” to equal 126”. This does not have to be exact, just close. You need to sew each piece of row #2 together at the short ends with right sides together using 1⁄2” seam allowance until you have one big circle. – make 2 of row #2.

Row #3 – Get your measurement for row #3 and proceed just like you did with row #2, adjusting the strips as necessary. Sew each piece of row #3 together at the short ends with right sides together using 1⁄2” seam allowance until you have one big circle. – make 2 of row #3. These rows will seem huge to you, but this is ok because you want that, it’s what gives the skirt it’s fullness.

Step 4: Assembling the Rows
If you have a ruffler foot, you will want to use it now! You will be gathering in a 3:1 ratio.
If you do not have a ruffler foot, run a basting stitch approximately 1⁄4” from the top edge of each row #3. A basting stitch is a long stitch that makes it easy to gather the fabric. Stop at each seam allowance and pull out your fabric, cut the thread, then do the next section. This will make it easier to gather.

Adjust row #3 to fit to the bottom of row#2 by adjusting the gathers to fit and then pin in place. You can do this by gently pulling one thread of the basting stitches and gently gathering the fabric. With the right sides together using 1⁄2” seam allowance, baste row #3 and row #2 together. Check your stitches on the other side and then sew just below the basting stitch using a regular stitch to secure the rows together. Do this with both layers. You can pull out the basting threads if you like once the rows are sewn altogether.

Once both layers are done, pin layer #1 to layer #2 with the right side of layer #2 against the wrong side of layer #1. So, basically the right sides are both facing the same way.

Baste these layers together and then adjust the gathers to fit the yoke just like you did when you attached row #3 to row #2. Place the right sides together and then baste the yoke to the two layers at one time. Once you have checked your stitching, sew the yoke to the layers again using a regular stitch.

Now is the time to attach the fluff to the skirt! To make your fluff, run a basting stich, or use your ruffler, to make one large strip of fluff in the measurement you calculated above. You do not have to attach each strip to the other strips as you can simply put the next piece in line and overlap it slightly. This strip will be 2 times the measurement of the bottom row so you need to use a 2:1 ratio on your ruffler {if you are using one}

Now attach the fluff to your skirt approximately 1⁄4” from the edge of the bottom row, adjusting to fit! You can pin the fluff first to make sure it will fit! You can add the fluff to both layers or just the top layer! If you are using more than one color of fluff just organize the colors in the order you want them on the skirt! I, however, do not ruffle the fluff or gather it first, I just “bunch” it up as I go and it works perfectly! That’s just a quicker way for me to get it done. *You can also find pre-made chiffon ruffles online via Etsy!

Step 6: Inserting the Elastic and Ribbon
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Use a safety pin attached to one end of the elastic and carefully feed it through the waistband being careful to not let the other end enter the casing.

When you get it all the way around, gently pull out the end with the safety pin and sew the two ends together by using a straight stitch and go over it several times to hold it together. Allow the elastic to enter the casing and sew the casing closed.

To insert the ribbon, attach the safety pin to one end and carefully feed it through one button hole opening and then around the casing to the other button hole opening.

Finally, tie the ribbon into a pretty bow & you are DONE!

***TIPS***
Also, if this is your 1st time making one it can seem very confusing
for the measurements– I actually am in the
middle of updating the instructions because I have found a new place
to get some pre-cut chiffon!

You can go here– http://www.afc-express.com/neslchro.html
For a 5/6 you can purchase one 2 inch roll that is 60 yards long {for
the fluff at the bottom of the skirt} and one 5 inch roll that is 30
yards long for the 2 tiers.

So, your 1st tier is satin, the 2nd and 3rd tiers are 5 inch wide
chiffon, and then you use the 2 inch wide chiffon as a ruffle along
the bottom. If you want the skirt to be REALLY full you can make the
chiffon 2nd and 3rd tiers twice and sew them together then add the
fluff– I like doing them that way for the bigger girls sizes.

Another tip– if you don’t have a ruffler–increase your stitch length
like you normally would to create a ruffle and then play around with
your tension settings and use some scrap fabric to see how it ruffles
your fabric– I’d jot down those settings for future use . Don’t
backstitch at either of the ends so you can still adjust the ruffle by
increasing or decreasing the ruffles and then you can set them with
stitches.